“How do you get rid of rust?” Well, I’d like to have a dollar for every time I’ve been asked that question, however my usual answer is, “what are you de-rusting?”.

There are many tales, suggestions, and tried-and-true methods of removing oxidation of ferrous metals (rust): molasses, white vinegar, salt and rice water, and citric acid. All of these are very efficient at removing rust. There are also a few patented proprietary rust-remover alternatives; one that comes to mind is EVAPO-RUST, which I’ve tried with pleasing results.

Electrolysis

Another alternative is electrolysis, one that I use, a system which is simple, efficient, and easy to set up with minimal expense. Here are a few simple instructions which may answer your next question, “What is electrolysis and how do you set it up”? 

Equipment Needed

  • Plastic container
  • Domestic plastic bucket
  • Stainless steel plate or strip; if not within reach, a length of steel reinforcements bar or similar works just as well
  • 12 Volt battery charger
  • Water
  • Washing soda

How To Set Up And Use

I’ll keep this description simple, no technical stuff, just what I do. 

Firstly, choose an outside or well-ventilated area as during the process the hydrogen gas, which being lighter than air could accumulate in inside spaces and present an explosion risk.

A heavily rusted pair of pliers were rescued from the metal recycling bin to be the example for this demonstration

The Process

  1. Fill the plastic bucket with warm water, add a couple of heaped table-spoons of washing soda (now electrolyte), then tip this into the plastic Container. The water needs to be deep enough to cover the rusted pliers.
  2. Place the stainless steel up one end of the container (Photo 1)
  3. Clean off all the loose dirt etc from the pliers then connect the black lead (negative) connection on the battery charger to the pliers, then put it under the water in the container. (Photo 2)
  4. Connect the battery charger’s red lead (positive) to the stainless steel keeping the connection above the water. (Photo 1)
  5. Connect the battery charger to the power source and turn on. In a short while, you’ll notice a reaction in the form of hydrogen bubbles rising. (Photo 3 before reaction & Photo 4 reaction)
  6. Leave for about an hour, then disconnect to check on progress; this can be done with a stiff bristle brush or steel wool in a bucket of warm soapy water; this may be repeated several times for heavily pitted objects.
  7. Once satisfied, the tool will have a black sludge and lifted iron oxide (rust flakes) that will easily wash off with steel wool or brush. 

Once dry, the surface can be brightened up with a fine wire brush then buffed on a cloth wheel with a green or brown ‘buffing stick’ – those without such equipment can achieve the same results with a polishing cloth and a suitable metal polish.

The end result is seldom disappointing; this relic, not only is now a useful tool, but also revealed the marking, TORO – made in USA – maybe close to 100 years ago.

‘Electrolysis’, I’d recommend it, no special equipment needed, and it removes only rust – I must admit, it does remove paint splotches and other surface unwanted deposits.

Note: As with all rust-removing processes, it is recommended that the wooden handles and brass on tools such as try squares, trowels, and the like, be protected with a smear of clear wax or Vaseline on the wood or brass before placing them in the bath.